Hiking in Torres del Paine

The hiking here is fantastic!  I've been powering up and down hills.  Perhaps I've finally hit my stride, so to speak.  Off and on drizzle doesn't seem to bother me anymore and I think I'm starting to get accustomed to the wind.

I switch things up a bit.  Against all the Rules Of How To Properly Distribute Weight I moved my camera to the top of my pack.  Not only does that make things top-heavy, but there's less padding around it.  Brilliant!  However, I also means I can drop my pack, grab my camera and grab a shot inside of five seconds.  I needed that speed when an Andean condor went drifting in front of Los Cuernos, riding the air currents they'll float on all day long.

Note for future travels: When you talk to people, ask their names and talk to them on a first name basis.  They remember you and are more willing to help you later.  Besides, it removes some of the anonymity of traveling.

We passed the Hotel Pehoe on the way to the ferry this morning.  What a location!  On a spit of land sticking onto the lake with a wide open view of the mountains on the other side.  I need to return here and try seeing this place on the luxury tour!

Two refugios -- camping locations that range from primitive shelters to modern lodges -- on the Paine circuit on the way to Refugio Lago Pehoe and Refugio Glaciares were reported to be totally open (and free).  It would be interesting to see if you could hike the circuit without a tent by using the refugios.  Would the lack of weight allow you to go quicker an thus make the circuit in less time, or with more side trips?  Perhaps when Jen gets down here we'll come back and find out.

(In looking at my maps, I have no idea what I was writing about when I mentioned Refugio Glaciares.  I can find no such refugio mentioned on any of my maps...  Must have been overcome by the grandeur!)

Recommendations:

• Hotel Pehoe: Awesome location, but we didn't stay there.
• Camping Pehoe: Nice location.  $10k pesos for up to 6 people.  Some provisions can be bought at a small store.  Firewood is free.
• Refugio Pehoe: Very exposed camping.  Some provisions and meals at the refugio which I didn't take advantage of.
• Refugio Serano:Recommended by a couple from North Carolina.  Between Vallé Francais and Vallé Torres.  Not run by Andescape.  Supposedly the food is good.  We'll find out soon enough.